The organic movement has arguably achieved a great deal. On the biggest issues, it has really won the debate. Most people now accept that you can’t just spray and inject your way to sustainable food production, that there is much to be gained from more integrated farming practices that deploy resources from the earth rather than from chemical factories. But as conventional farming adapts, the best way ahead becomes much less clear. If we want food that is good for humans, animals and the environment, the priority now is not to praise organics or to bury it, but to accept we must look beyond it.